New England Trip October 2021 – Part Two

Perkins Cove in Ogunquit Maine

Continuing on from Part One this is the rest of the trip from last October!  This will cover my travels from Wells, Maine to Provincetown, Massachusetts (and a lot of places in between).

In the morning I woke up at the Town & Country Inn and had breakfast at the hotel restaurant.  It was amusing to see so many women there – not a single man was in the restaurant!  I then found out that it’s a popular place for ATVs as there’s trails right off the parking lot that go into the mountains.  A woman near me at breakfast was telling me about the waterfall nearby and how pretty the trails were.  Since mostly everyone was offsite hitting the trails the wifi was juuuuuust strong enough for me to send out a few emails and contracts before heading out towards Maine!  While I wasn’t a huge fan of the hotel, the restaurant was good and I’d eat here again when/if I’m ever in the area!

I packed back out and paused before leaving to take some photos of the views from the parking lot in front of my room.  While the hotel was so-so on my list, the views were definitely beautiful!  About 2 months before my friend Kevin had just hiked through this ridge on the Appalachian Trail!  Normally this time of year you’d have much less foliage I’m told but due to the warm dry September the leaves were a bit behind.  YAY!

Mountain in Gorham NH in October

The day before a fellow wedding photographer I met told me that instead of the planned route I had he recommended going through where Evans Notch was as the views there were better than those at Crawford’s Notch.  When I first turned off of Route 2 onto 113 I was just simply STUNNED by how beautiful the foliage was.  I pulled off a few times just to take it all in, including this lovely spot at Hastings Trailhead.  For that brief moment, it was a stunning day.

Hastings Trailhead in Maine

It was funny how quickly it changed from blue skies to soupy fog.  I was cruising along listening to my favorite All Bad Things podcast (HIGHLY recommend) and then BAM.  FOG.

Fog on the way to Evans Notch

The further I got up the mountain, the worse it got.  When I finally reached Evans Notch I just laughed and laughed.  You could barely see ten feet if that ahead of you!

Evans Notch in Maine

I was curious about the grave here so I took a photo to look him up later.  As it turns out Errold was one of the foreman who built the road leading up to Evans Notch and he requested that his ashes be scattered here .  The forrest service granted the family permission to leave a plaque in his name.  I really love this and I am certain the view is stunning when there’s no fog!

Evans Notch in Maine

I continued on towards Wells, Maine for my next stop for the next few nights only pulling over once for a view.  I was kind of feeling ‘eh’ and doing the “is it allergies or is it covid” inner battle (it was allergies).  I got to Wells a bit earlier than I expected and in the end I am really glad because I LOVED my room!

Let me back up a bit.  I love Maine so I always knew it was going to factor into my trip somehow.  Generally I stay in Ogunquit at The Sparhawk hotel.  I’ve stayed here I think 3 or 4 times now and I really have enjoyed it.  However they didn’t have any rooms in the buildings I prefer (ocean view).  I bopped around checking out the other hotels also along The Marginal Way but they too were fully booked or didn’t have any rooms overlooking the ocean.  After a few days in the woods I wanted some ocean!  I then checked the other favorite of mine not too far away, ViewPoint, but they took were fully booked.  So I did what I usually do when trying to find a place to stay – troll around Google Maps and see what captures my eye.  I landed on the Atlantic Oceanfront Motel and decided that this was going to be a new adventure!

After I drug my luggage up to my room (that was an adventure!) I was astounded by the views from my balcony.  They were simply spectacular!  I quickly decided to relax and read/catch up on emails while sitting on my balcony enjoying the salt air (yay for wifi).  The photo below was from my balcony!

View of Wells Beach from Atlantic Oceanfront Motel

It legit doesn’t get much better than this!

Once the sun set I decided to head out to find some food.  I tried to stop at Billy’s Chowder House which was so popular there wasn’t a spot left in the parking lot!  I decided to go down the street and hit the grocery store intending to just have another dinner of snacks.  On the way back someone was pulling out of Billy’s so I decided to go for it and pulled in for dinner.  It was FANTASTIC!  Seafood places for me can be hit or miss (I’m allergic to seafood) but when there’s not a lot open you have to go with what you have!  The steak I had was fabulous and the service was good.  I always feel guilty taking up a table at a busy place when I’m solo. but there was a large party that made a table only really able to seat one so it worked out.  I will be returning here someday!

That night I slept the sleep of the dead with my slider pulled open listening to the ocean crash all night.  Ahhhhhh.  Bliss.

The next morning I woke up early hoping for a sunrise but no dice.  I face timed with the cats (yes I’m that cat person) and then decided I may as well get up and on with my day.  I was hoping to take a lighthouse cruise from Perkins Cove to see Nubble Lighthouse so I headed down to see if it was running.  It was a bit gloomy when I woke up but the sky was brightening and it looked promising!

Beach in Wells Maine seen from Atlantic Oceanfront Motel

Sadly due to the winds they had canceled the cruise *sad trombone* but not all was lost because any day in Ogunquit is a good one!  I was sad to see that the city hadn’t decorated for Halloween like it had years before.  I understand why, and a few businesses still did, but overall it just made me sad to see yet another charming thing that covid had taken away.

I decided to walk around Perkins Cove for a bit since I’d already paid the $$$ for parking (it was a busy day so the lots were $20/car).  Of course I had to visit and take photos from my favorite bridge of the lobster boats!

Perkins Cove in Ogunquit MainePerkins Cove in Ogunquit Maine

This random bird amused me as he was sitting by me with a beautiful leaf in his beak so I had to take a photo of him!

Perkins Cove in Ogunquit Maine

After taking the photos I meandered the stores in the area making sure to stop by my favorite, Sea Glass Jewelry Studio, and pick up a new pair of earrings (and a ring) as is my tradition.  I then decided to eat lunch at Jackie’s Too since it was open and, again, I’d already paid once for parking I decided to make the most of it!  There was a bit of a wait but it was fine because the day was so warm (75!) it was enjoyable just to sit in the sun and enjoy!  The food was good and I loved sitting on the covered porch and watching the ocean.

I then headed back to the hotel because it was so warm I decided to do something I rarely get to do when in Maine in October – go to the beach!  I didn’t bring a swimsuit with me because WHY WOULD I when it was supposed to be cool when I was packing??  Instead it was 75 and everyone was on the beach and swimming since the ocean was the same temperature as the air.  I grabbed a towel and my kindle and went down to the beach to enjoy some sun.  I had a great afternoon reading and watching the kitesurfing.  The beach/water was FULL of them – at one point I believe there was a dozen of them?  My Dad’s best friend did a lot of wind surfing when I was a kid and we’d watch him (and I had one very bad failed attempt at it) but kitesurfing is new to me so it was fun to watch.

At one point I had to go in to cool off so I rolled up my pants and waded in.  It was so lovely and warm!

Kitesurfing in Wells Maine

Eventually I meandered back to my room to get some water and ended up back out on the balcony to continue watching and enjoying the beach.  It was a rare but beautiful fall day in Maine!  I also was highly amused by my neighbors cheering the kitesurfers and giving them scores on their leaps in the air.

Wells Maine Beach

I decided to skip dinner again that night opting for my snacks I’d procured from the store since I was still pretty full from lunch.  I went out in hopes for a good sunset but sadly the clouds rolled in as storms were heading towards us.  Most ended up breaking up but it still rained a bit and the clouds ruined any chance of a good sunset, rude.

The next morning I slept in since I had a long drive to Provincetown and missed the sunrise.  I never did make a sunrise this trip!  Oh well!  The morning was bright and a beautiful one.  Instead of kitesurfing I was greeted with the views of surfers as the seas had kicked up overnight!  The ocean was a vibrant almost tropical blue!

Surfing in Wells Maine in OctoberSurfing in Wells Maine in October

I sadly bid goodbye to my lovely room in Wells.  This won’t be my last stay here!! I definitely plan to come back again, hopefully this year.  I headed off to Cambridge to meet up with a very dear friend that I met online in 1998!  Scott and I met over our mutual love of the movie Titanic and always were ships passing in the night whenever I’ve been in the area.  We finally were able to meet up and it was great to stop and stretch my legs for a bit on the road.  I forgot how long the haul out is on the cape (even if I’d never been all the way to P-town).

I finally arrived at my final hotel of the trip, the Breakwater Hotel.  It was another random hotel I just chose at will.  I wanted something with an ocean view and it delivered!  My room was very small but it worked and the staff here could NOT have been any more lovely.  It was yet another motel with an outdoor entrance and also renovated to be more modern.  I thought it was just darling and would definitely stay here again.

I had never been to Provincetown and I was excited to finally visit.  Mostly for one reason – my nephew Drew had moved there the year before and it had been over a year since I’d seen him last.  It was chance that the hotel I booked was pretty close to his house so that was also a bonus!  He was working when I arrived but told me where to go to watch the sunset (he knows me well).  I headed out to Herring Beach Cove and BOY the temps had changed.  All of that warmth from the days prior was gone and the wind was BRUTAL.  I hunkered down and hoped for the best but sadly the sunset was kind of a dud.  Still, any time spent on the beach is a good time on the beach!

Sunset at Herring Beach Cove in Provincetown

Since Drew still was working I stopped on my way back to the hotel and got dinner at Fanizzi’s which was delicious!  Since it was just me they sat me at the bar, which I generally hate, but the bartender was awesome and I didn’t feel super awkward at all.  After Drew got off of work we went downtown and had a drink and caught up.  It was SO nice to see him and to finally see Provincetown!  The downtown area is just darling but apparently Sunday nights aren’t the night to see it for the first time as everything closed down around 9/10PM.  Ah well!

The next day Drew had to work most of the day so I set out to see the sights in the area, especially the lighthouses.  I hadn’t seen ANY up to this point and I needed to get my lighthouse fix on!  However, hilariously, they were mostly under construction so it wasn’t the greatest sights in the end lol.

I started out my morning at Nauset Lighthouse.  Which I’m sure when it’s painted is just darling!  Ha ha ha.  This lighthouse has kind of a neat history – it was built in 1877 and was originally located in Chatham as the north tower.  Often many inlets would have multiple towers so when you lined them up you knew if you were in the channel.  In 1923 the trio of wooden lighthouses at this spot, the Three Sisters, had been whittled down to the one remaining and it was retired so this tower was moved to take its place.  This tower also has been moved which seems to be a common theme on Cape Cod and the nearby islands!

nauset lighthouse on cape cod

When going back to the parking lot to get in my car I noticed that a lot of people were going over to the beach walkway and I decided to take a stroll.  While it wasn’t as warm as it was earlier in the week the sun was warm and it wasn’t too bad.  Imagine my surprise when the first thing I see is this HUGE notice about sharks.

I go to the Outer Banks a lot so sharks aren’t a strange thing for me to think about when in the ocean.  Heck, I’ve even accidentally bumped into one when swimming there once (nurse shark so was totally tame).  But this somehow seemed more intimidating?  Maybe it was because I was in Jaws country (ha ha) but I was pretty shocked by it.  Since I was definitely intrigued now, I headed down.

nauset beach shark sign

On the way up was a woman with a camera and she told me that there was a seal swimming around and, “if you get lucky maybe you’ll see a shark eat it.”  Well, I’m not sure I’d consider that lucky but yeah, I was going to that beach.

When I got to the end I saw more shark signs and even a first aid kit for shark attacks.  Shark attacks have happened quite often (okay maybe not often but it’s not totally out of the ordinary, stay out of the water at sunrise and sunset kids!) on the Outer Banks and I had NEVER seen anything like this so my mind was kind of blown.

great white shark attack warnings at nauset light beach

I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t really curious what is in a shark attack emergency kit.

I moved down on to the beach keeping my eyes peeled for the seal but I never did see it.  I took some photos and enjoyed the fresh air before heading back up and into my car to head off to another spot.  I was sad I didn’t see any seals but to be honest I’m not sad to have missed a shark eating one.

Nauset Light Beach in October

Since my visit to PEI in 2006 I have loved small wooden lighthouses which are what mostly dots the coastline of PEI.  On my way out I decided to stop at the Three Sisters Lighthouses to visit them.  These lighthouses replaced the existing lighthouse here in 1892 but in 1911 they started to be moved due to the ever changing coastline of Cape Cod.  Two of these lighthouses were auctioned off and purchased for $3.50 (!) and were joined with a room and was a cottage for about 40 years.  The third and final lighthouse was then sold when the existing light replaced it and it too was used as a cottage.  Eventually all three were purchased by the NPS and they were restored to their former selves and placed where you can visit them now not far from Nauset Light.  I noticed the towers all had fresh flowers laid at the doorsteps and I’m curious what the story there is!

Three Sisters Lighthouses on Cape CodThree Sisters Lighthouses on Cape Cod

My next stop was Highland Lighthouse aka Cape Cod Light and I just laughed and laughed when I pulled up.  You would too!  It is a pretty lighthouse so I definitely want to come back someday but it amused me how it seemed that everything was under renovations!  I’m glad she is getting some much-needed love and I hope when I return I can see it in her full glory!  It was built in 1857 replacing the original 1797 tower.  The lighthouse was moved in 1996, much like many of her Cape Cod counterparts.

Highland Lighthouse on Cape Cod

The area it is on is really pretty.  Despite the winds that were picking up I decided to walk around a bit and down to the cliffs.  Another couple and I were really curious about this random tower off in the distance and, again, cell phone service was lacking so I took a photo to remind myself to look it up later.  It is the Jenny Lind Tower and had been moved from Boston when they tore down the Fitchburg Railroad Station.  The random golf ball thing is a part of the former North Truro Air Force Station and I believe this is FAA radar?

Jenny Lind Tower in North Truro

The winds were picking up and the next lighthouse was a bit further out so I decided to visit that one on my way back to Boston and head back to my hotel.  I wandered the beach there and got distant photos of Wood End and Long Point lighthouses and bundled up to head back to Herring Cove Beach for another shot at a sunset.  I also noticed this beach has a warning for coyotes.  WHAT IS HAPPENING IN CAPE COD?!

This time I was successful!  It was worth all the hives sitting on the cold beach for.  I was nervous when I saw the clouds but I had hopes they’d pick up some pretty colors and the sun would be able to pop through the slim opening at the horizon and I was right.  A LOT of people left thinking it’d be a dud but I’m glad I hung on.

Herring Cove Beach SunsetHerring Cove Beach Sunset

After I got warmed back up I headed out to dinner with Drew at The Red Inn which was delicious and it was such a neat place!  I’m glad that I was able to meet up with him, meet his new boyfriend and spend a bit of time with him between his crazy work schedules.  I’m also delighted that I finally got to see P town!  It won’t be my last visit.

The next morning I headed out pretty early and stopped at Chatham Light and FINALLY got a lighthouse that wasn’t under construction of some sort!  YAY!  This lighthouse was built in 1877 and is the sister to Nauset Light that I saw the day before.  It is currently a US Coast Guard Station.

Chatham Light on Cape Cod

Behind me is Chatham Beach which had, what I’ve come to expect, all the warnings for all the animals.  The shark warning poster was back with the addition of a seal warning poster.  Also no floatation devices I’m guessing because you’d look like a seal to a shark?  Unfortunately I didn’t have a lot of time to explore but I did take a few photos and wander the beach a bit.  While there I ran into a woman with her camera who asked if I’d been to the fish pier yet to see the seals.  I said no.  She told me I had to go to it so I obeyed.

Yet again, photographers coming in clutch!

Down the street from the lighthouse is the Chatham Pier Fish Market.  I pulled up and was certain I’d found the wrong place as it was closed.  I saw other people milling about and decided to get out to see what I could find.  Apparently in season there’s a really good restaurant here but I was here for the seals and boy this place delivered!

There were about a half-dozen or so seals just swimming/floating around the pier area and at least two dozen more out in the bay area swimming around the boats.  I was terrified at first I’d see one get eaten but luckily it was very peaceful!  I could easily stayed there for hours watching them!

Chatham Pier Fish Market SealsChatham Pier Fish Market SealsChatham Pier Fish Market SealsChatham Pier Fish Market Seals

Here’s a small video I have watched many, many times and it gives me great joy!

Chatham Pier Fish Market Seals

The boats here also made for some good photos while waiting for a seal to return.

chatham pier fish marketchatham pier fish marketchatham pier fish market

After that I sadly put my camera away and headed back to Boston to fly out.  I made one last final ‘always’ stop – Wahlburgers at the airport.  I was sad they were out of the yummy dipping sauce but I was delighted to have it again – it had been a LONG time.

That ends my lovely trip to New England!  I hope to go back again this year in October but who knows what will happen.  Fingers crossed!

no comments
Add a comment...

Your email is never published or shared. Required fields are marked *